A Kenya Staycation

Back in the UK, we love a good 'staycation' - we've spent many holidays in our own country, exploring the corners of Britain.  But what would it be like to 'holiday at home' when our home is now Kenya?

We'd spent 6 weeks trying to fit in, learn our way and be taken seriously.  With white skin, we're already an easy target for attention from hawkers, children, and in my case - groups of young men, and if you look at all uncertain of your direction or the correct protocol you are clearly a newcomer and the hassle will just increase. 

So we've been adopting the 'fake it till you make it' approach which involves wearing a neutral, focussed expression and striding purposefully (even if its just to the nearest building so you can check your map).  We walk around, head held aloft projecting the mantra -

Mimi si mtalii, mimi ni mjitoleagi
I am not a tourist, I am a volunteer

Imagine me wearing an expression that says Don't follow me, don't speak to me, don't ask for my hand in marriage, I work here and I know my way around so good day to you sir!  Fellow Volunteer Eddie has a different phrase for it, but my mum is reading this, so you'll have to ask him.

So as we planned a trip to the Coast province of Kenya, I wondered how it would feel to suddenly be a tourist, because surely - now we live here - it's just a staycation?

The Kenyan coast is 500km South-East of Nairobi, 6 degrees warmer and home to the Swahili people, coconut trees, white sand beaches and the blue-green indian ocean.  Oh, the hardship of development work... And so it was that two Brits, an American woman and an Irish woman boarded an overnight train one Nairobi evening heading down to Mombasa.

Now, I promised myself I wouldn't let this post slide into smug paragraphs about snorkelling at a community-owned marine reserve with mind-boggling species of sealife, taking a luxury dinner cruise around mombasa island or spotting a herd of elephant from our upper class train cabin... so instead let's explore the impact of our six weeks in Kenya on the tourist experience.

Six weeks ago we would have been like any other European, fresh off the plane and ready for a trip of a lifetime, but these 6 weeks had changed us.  We're not experts yet by any stretch, but we have been taught, and learned, understood more, gone deeper and adapted already.  Kenya resident's cards in hand, truly the most interesting thing about our coast trip was to benchmark how much we had changed:

• We headed off with a pocket-load of personal recommendations from fellow volunteers, all of them off-guidebook.
• We were totally unsurprised when the station master announced the train would be three hours late.
• At that point, we were unafraid to head out into the dark city centre in search of food and beer, in contrast to every other tourist waiting for the train.
• We were prepared for a lack of power.
• We were ready to be served unappetising food.
• We are already used to the quite dreadful toilet conditions.
• Having a little kiswahili beyond 'jambo' goes a long way.
• We balked at some prices, knew they were inflated just for us and bartered down.
• We minimised street hassle with a 'don't mess' attitude (see above).
• We were willing to trust a phone number, the guy on the phone and an offered motorbike ride down an unmarked beach track
• We put the poverty we saw into perspective with other regions of the country, didn't jump to conclusions.
• We were VERY appreciative of a french-style cafe with REAL cappucinos.
• We were open-mouthed in shock when our bus back to Nairobi left on time.
• And the big change for me was that we didn't instantly convert every price into pounds, but instead compared it with how many shillings we'd pay 'back home' (in Nairobi).

I'm sure our new approach to travel here will change again, become more sophisticated and continue to work with mixed success, but for now, if you've been wondering how this experience has changed us so far - this is how.

Special thanks go to: Jess and Gaz for the tips; Jenny for hosting us; Tara and Ingrid for reminding us that the best things in life are totally worth the price; and the Kiruwitu Marine Reserve - if you're ever in Kenya, check it out - amazing.

Can't resist a few photos -

The lovely Tara and Ingrid enjoying the view from the train

At the Tamarind restaurant, Mombasa.  That's our dhow behind.  Awesome.

Dan and Katana, the snorkelling dude.  He knew the scientific names of every fish.

First time drinking a coconut.  Entered into with typical gusto

Lunch - chipati, sukuma wiki (greens) and beans.  Exactly as I'd
have on a working day, but why does it taste so much better
at the beach??

Nice shot, Jenny!  We're behind the sail, coming into land

Miss Jenny Hampton, on her local beach at Mtwapa Creek